I finally made it out to Hawaii, something that I thought I’d do more often now that I live on the West coast. Leah and her mom were with me for four days in Kauai and nine days on Maui. This post captures what we did, what I’d do differently, and my general thoughts to help me the next time I visit. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll be very brief and to the point.
Fri, Dec 20
Landed in Kauai from Seattle at 9:30pm. Turo shuttle picks us up. It’s an 8min drive to the Turo lot. Have cash for a tip.
Not much open for dinner, so we drive to Domino’s and are very happy to be here. The Safeway nearby is open 24hrs so we stock up.
We drive north to Moloa'a Beach where we’ve got an Airbnb.
Sat, Dec 21
We start the day by walking to Moloa’a Beach, which is nice to explore before the crowds arrive.
We drive back south towards the airport. We checked out the Kauai Community Market. Lise got some fruit (rambutan, Hawaiian oranges, and some others). She ended up loving the rambutan and couldn’t find it for the rest of the trip.
We drove over to Kaua’i Sushi Station for lunch. Lots of chickens running around beneath our feet. The sushi is pretty decent for a truck, don’t expect to be blown away. Lots of flies buzzing around though.
We drove over to Waikomo Shave Ice, which I was drawn to because they natural syrup, fresh fruit topping, and local honey. The owner, also named Leah, was friendly. This ended up being Leah and Lise’s favorite spot from the entire trip.
Waikomo Shave Ice is connected to Warehouse 3540, a makerspace with some small shops in a cool setting. I got bored pretty quickly while the girls shopped. The bathroom inside is convenient.
We drove over to Koloa for Kauai Juice Co, which had a very polished LA vibe. They make a range of hot sauces and there are testers you can sample. Walked around the town which was nice. Sat in the plaza area next to The Fresh Shave where I was tempted to get another shave ice out of boredom as the ladies did more shopping. Grabbed snack bars for later at Hoku Foods Natural Market.
We drove over to Kuilau Ridge Trailhead. There was space for two or three cars to park, but we were the only car there. Maybe we were supposed to park at Keahua Stream Bridge just around the bend. It’s a quiet trail that’s easy enough to do in Tevas but trail sneakers would be more comfortable. I’m not sure how far we went (I didn’t record), but we went at least 1.5-2 miles in. Very shaded and moderately humid. Kid-friendly for sure.
Got to JO2 Natural Cuisine for a 5:45pm reservation. This ended up being the best dinner of the entire trip. If you arrive before 6pm, you can get the three-course meal for $45.
Despite already having dessert with dinner, we stopped in to Wailua Shave Ice on the way home. This was everyone’s second favorite. I thought it was the most interesting, given the textural element.
Sun, Dec 22
Left home early to get to Waipa Park and Ride for a reserved shuttle. Shuttles run very often and there’s usually space to get on an earlier bus if you show up a little earlier. We got the 7:40am. The sunrise drive has spectacular scenery.
Hiked to Hanakāpīʻai Falls. Total mileage was 8.25mi (2,200ft ele). The trail is sometimes slippery and it’d be easy to roll an ankle. We didn’t bring trekking poles but I’d have loved them for the stream crossings. I saw one guy stupidly try jumping onto a wet polished slab and almost crack his skull by falling backwards. Trail shoes definitely recommended. Leah hiked fast to get past the slow people who had 7am or earlier shuttles. We had a great moment admiring the waterfall, watching some people swim (was very cold and not sunny in that valley). On the way back, most slow groups understood to let us pass, but others seemed to try and move faster.
Got back to the car and stopped in to Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market for some excellent poke in the late afternoon. No place to sit, but there are rocks by the nearby stream where you can watch some kayakers. Went to Wishing Well Shave Ice (also in Hanalei) and it was decent. I’d do it again if I was in the area.
Would’ve loved to see more of Hanalei but headed back home. Left for dinner in the Grand Hyatt Resort at Tidepools. Made a reservation just before sunset, so we could walk the grounds. It’s all very beautiful, but know that the path along the beach is open to the public, not just the hotel guests and restaurant diners. The dinner was pretty meh, especially given the exorbitant cost. Very surprised anyone recommends this. I felt like an idiot for bringing others this spot.
Mon, Dec 23
Left very early and drove up to Waimea Canyon. The change in scenery is dramatic, going from lush and green to dry and red very quickly.
On the way over, we grabbed lunch at Konohiki Seafoods. The poke was very good. Figure out what you want before you’re up because they’re not going to be too patient. There’s a long line to get through. There won’t be space to sit, so we sat on some rocks by the Hanama’ulu sign across the street.
Went up as far as the road allowed, which was Kalalau Lookout. Bring binoculars to appreciate how the details of the Nā Pali Coast. We set off on foot to walk the remaining 1 mile on the paved (but closed) road to the Pu’u O Kila Lookout. It’s a pleasant walk, especially if you time it so that everyone is heading back. On the drive back to town, we stopped at all of the lookouts. Since it was the last hour before sunset, we had these views to ourselves.
Got to Japanese Grandma's Cafe in Hanapepe for a 6:45pm dinner. Lovely backyard setting with live music playing. The food is good, but the vibe is excellent. I’d come back here regularly if I lived in the area.
Tues, Dec 24
We start the day again by taking a dip at Moloa’a Beach.
We get a late start and get poke for lunch at Pono Market, which was very good. I wish I could’ve eaten more. Just two doors down you’ll find a lot with some food trucks and picnic tables to sit at.
On the drive back home we stop at Kalalea Juice Hale. The roadside setting is spectacular.
Leah and I spend the hour before sunset at a beach that I loved. It had far less plastic trash on it. I won’t mention the name unless you ask me in person.
Notes on Kauai
It only rained briefly maybe once a day, except for one day where it poured hard for an hour or two straight. The air often smelled sweet and fragrant. We never ran the air-conditioner as the fan was more than enough.
It was rough to be woken up by roosters as early as 4am.
It gets chilly at night, especially if there’s a breeze coming through or you go to dinner somewhere air-conditioned. Pack a small layer even if you don’t think you need it.
We wanted to explore as much of the island as possible, so we know where we’d want to stay for our next visit. This meant a lot of driving and the island isn’t easy to drive.
We had no issues with bugs.
I did like where we stayed near Moloa’a Beach. I think I’d stay anywhere on the island next time except Lihue (busier) or the Poipu resorts. If I were to try and have it all, I’d split my time between Anahola and Hanapepe.
We did not go snorkeling because the snorkel report (published daily) wasn’t good.
Wed, Dec 25
We land in Maui at 11am, pick up our Turo (a Toyota Tacoma), and head straight to Safeway (open on Christmas) for lunch. I had some very mediocre poke here, but I was grateful to the employees for working on the holiday.
The Tacoma would end up being the perfect vehicle for this island given our activities.
We’re staying at a friend’s place in Pukalani, located at a cooler higher elevation in what’s called Upcountry. Just before sunset, we went for a walk on Thompson Road. It’s a paved one lane road with views of rolling hills and lava rock walls denoting property lines. You’ll get a peek at Oprah’s estate up on the left.
Although some spots are open for dinner, none of it looks good so we just eat groceries from Safeway.
Thur, Dec 26
Leah and I head to Ukumehame Beach for the first of five surf lessons with Zack Howard.
Right after the lesson we drive a short distance to Olowalu mile marker 14 where the snorkeling report says it’ll be good. We check out some marine life and head to Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop. Everyone in the long line was wishing they had cell signal so they could order for pickup and not have to wait. I make a note to do that next time. There’s a convenient bathroom in the restaurant. We skip the famous pies and just get a salad and hot dog.
On the way back home, I grab a late lunch at Tin Roof Maui. The seating is some small chairs that are baking in the parking lot. This is another spot I wish I ordered for online in advance. The move here is the mochiko chicken with the spicy noodles. There’s a substantial amount here and I’d recommend splitting it with someone.
Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice - Kahului is nearby so we walk over. The line is unbearable in the hot sun, but it’s worth it. Just know that it does not move fast here. The texture of their ice soaked in the syrup is the best I’ve had. So smooth, almost like a sorbet.
We head in to Pa’ia where we shop around for some surfing equipment. The shops all close at 6pm. For dinner we’re lined up at Paia Fish Market Restaurant. There’s going to be a wait, so you’ll have plenty of time to figure out what you want. This is probably the best dollar for quality meal we had on the trip. I’d repeat.
Fri, Dec 27
Another surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard. Conditions are absolutely perfect. This is where beginners surf, at least this time of year. A photographer on the beach snapped some pics of us and we happily pay him $35 each for the memory.
We drive to Kihei with the intention of snorkeling given the snorkel report. Lise and Leah note that this stretch feels a bit more like Florida, not in a good way. We don’t snorkel.
Lunch is at Kitoko in South Maui Gardens. I liked being there. It feels like a nice food truck park. Kitoko was excellent. There’ll probably be a musician playing something. If you see an older, long-haired guy named Armadillo playing music, you should ask him how he ended up on the island. It’s a fun story.
I grab dinner from Pukalani Superette. Their selection was limited unfortunately at that hour. I’d like to go back during lunch. Had some mediocre poke. The shop is worth checking out for the selection of other goods they’ve got.
Sat, Dec 28
We head to the Upcountry Farmer’s Market early in the morning. We were repeatedly warned that it’s a madhouse if you don’t get there very early.
I had breakfast at the Indian food truck, which was recommended to me. I wouldn’t recommend it. The owner did warn me that it’s not going to be heavy and creamy, and that she uses olive oil instead of ghee. That should’ve been a red flag. It tasted like the kind of Indian food you’d get at a yoga retreat. It was satisfying, just boring.
I grabbed two bottles of kombucha from Maui Jun. She had some good flavors, intending to replicate soda pop flavors. Rather than use sugar, she uses local honey.
My favorite stop was Hi Spice. I sampled about 10 bottles and had a good chat with the dude. At 4 bottles for $30 it was a steal. I now regret not buying a second case.
We stopped at Crema Maui, which was in a converted trolley.
We had another surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard.
We snorkeled at Oluwalu mile marker 14 again. This is where the conditions were again reported to be best. We saw a monk seal in the water playing with a diver flag for several minutes.
We grabbed lunch at Sam Sato’s, a very old school Japanese diner. I loved the vibe here. The famous dry noodles are pretty light on flavor, but I’d go back. It was really cheap and had a local vibe, felt like you were eating food your buddy made. I also got the turnovers (manju was sold out), miso soup, and beef stick (incredible, get two).
We went out for dinner at Ocean Vodka. They have a beautiful, grassy open space with picnic tables (reservation only), a panoramic view of the sunset, and really good live music. If you don’t have a reservation, you can just grab some Adirondak chairs and seat yourself wherever. It’s great for people-watching. Just know that it gets very breezy, so you’ll want to be prepared for throwing on warm layers. The food is of the quality you’d get at a mid-sized American airport (not bad, not great), but remember you’re here for the vibe.
Sun, Dec 29
We had another morning surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard.
I grabbed poke for lunch at Foodland in Pukalani. It was amazing and might be my favorite of the entire trip. The guy at the counter was really friendly and let me sample as many as I wanted.
We went up to Kula Botanical Garden. It’s in a beautiful setting and at $15 it’s a lot of fun. I had enough service to ask ChatGPT to identify the plants and flowers without labels. I also was reading aloud stories about the Hawaiian gods.
We checked out Makawao, a former paniolo/cowboy town that now has boutique shopping. After walking around, we ended up at Little Tibet. Even if you have no interest in jewelry, Jacques has some cool stories. Ask him if he remembers the guy who bought his last turquoise bracelet.
We headed back to Kihei to pick up bikes that we’d be renting tomorrow from Maui Sunriders Bike Shop. I’d highly recommend them. Very affordable for a quality road bike. Just reserve in advance. We stocked up on cycling snacks here.
We grabbed early dinner at Coconut's Fish Cafe. They’re known for their fish tacos (not like Tijuana-style) but I got their fish and chips which I loved. This was another one of the better value meals. Would repeat.
Mon, Dec 30
We woke up at 5am to do a bike loop of West Maui. We started out at Foodland at around 7am and finished at around 2:30am. We went clockwise, which was against the wind for much of the ride although it felt safest to be on the inside.
The first flat 20 miles until Lahaina went quickly. Biking through Lahaina was extremely sobering. We stopped at Napili Market (mile 30) for lunch. I had the best and cheapest bowl of poke here I think. An entire bowl of poke in the middle of a bike ride isn’t an optimal choice, but I’d happily do it again.
We passed by Honolua Bay, but didn’t have enough time to really check out the surfers from the lookout point. I wish we did.
At mile 43 there’s a super steep section. It’s a hamstring burner. The views get incredible on the north coast. There will be stands for banana bread and cookies but I’m allergic to bananas and buying an entire loaf seemed like a bad idea.
Very soon the road becomes rougher and has some blind turns. Take these turns carefully as the locals will whip around the bends sometimes. It’s another reason why going clockwise felt safer (you won’t get bumped off the cliff edge). Some sections are one lane only and at times you may be faster than the cars since the bike is more nimble.
We dropped off the bikes before 4pm at Maui Sunriders Bike Shop. Grabbed late lunch at one of the food trucks at South Maui Gardens.
Tues, Dec 31
We had our final surf lesson. Ukumehame Beach was flat, so we headed over to Pa’ia Bay, where the waves were 3-4 feet. It’s a beautiful beach for hanging out in.
We got Waikomo Shave Ice in Pa’ia since we loved the Kauai location so much.
I picked up lunch from Keith at Only Ono BBQ. I had to text him what I wanted two days before since he’s only open once a week. He’s a cool dude and he makes the best chinese bbq pork I’ve ever tasted. He has plans to open a restaurant very soon.
We left home to drive to I’ao Valley. You’ll want to get a reservation beforehand. We had just enough cell service at the entrance to pay for admission on my phone. It’s an incredible setting. The hike is short and you can do it in crocs. Being there at sunset was nice because we were the last people in the area.
We had dinner at Balai Pata. Everything was great, but the malungay garlic noodles were incredible. I wouldn’t mind skipping the lumpia though.
Driving home we could see fireworks in all directions. Depending on where you’re staying on NYE, expect your neighbors to be setting them off. I slept with headphones on.
Wed, Jan 1
We figured doing the famous Road to Hana drive on a holiday when some folks would be flying home was a good idea. I think it was.
We started driving at 6am. The sunrise was beautiful. We had the GuideAlong audio tour, which was synced to our GPS location. I can’t recommend it enough.
We arrived to Wai’anapanapa State Park by 9am. I reserved a 7-10am time slot in advance. This is where you’ll find the black sand beaches. It seemed like camping was possible, which is something I’d look into later. The beach is small and fills up quickly.
We drove straight to the Ohe’o Gulch and Pipiwai Bamboo Trail parking lot after that. Be sure to pack your NPS pass if you’ve got one. The hike is a scenic 4mi round trip which I liked. The viewing area for the waterfall is very small, so it’ll get crowded unless you show up early.
I was hoping to try some of the Huli Huli chicken but it was closed. We did get some phenomenal juice at a truck in Hana though.
We drove through Ke’anae Peninsula which was wonderful, and we made a stop at Honomanu Beach, which was a rockier black sand beach in a beautiful setting.
Expect it to rain in the afternoon when you’re in Hana.
We stopped at a few small viewpoints that the audio tour recommended, but we would’ve loved to check out the Arboretum, Hamoa Beach, and others.
The driving is tough and often very tense. The locals drive fast and some tourists are inspired to do the same. Pack extra phone batteries, water, and snacks.
We had dinner reserved at Hali'imaile General Store. It was a nice setting, but felt very fake and the food was just okay. I wasn’t upset I went there, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Expect a mix of people in sweatpants/shorts and people dressed up very handsomely.
Thur, Jan 2
We flew out. I had enough time to get lunch at Tin Roof one last time.
Notes on Maui
I liked staying in Upcountry. If I were to do it again, I’d split time between Hana and Upcountry.
There was so much we didn’t have time to do in Maui. I’d happily come back many times.